Kin Town, Kunigami District, Okinawa Prefecture
Cafe Garamanjaku 2nd Generation Owner, Yamashiro Momoimato

Tomato Yamashiro: Born in Chatan Town in 1992. In November 2009, his mother, Kiyoko Yamashiro, opened Cafe Garamanjaku. He began helping out with the family business when he was a university student. His mother passed away in 2021. The cafe will reopen in April 2022. He has begun taking on new challenges, such as planning workshops with people from various fields on the theme of well-being. His hobbies are Okinawan karate and physical activity.


This is a column written by travel and spa journalist Yumiko Itakura, who continues to cover hotels and spas around the world and the roots and culture of health and beauty that live in each region.
This year, we will focus on people from all over Japan who work in a variety of professions who love the land they live in, live healthy lives in mind and body, and weave beauty, and we will unravel the wisdom they have learned from their local areas and hints for living positively for tomorrow.
Why not get interested in the local area through their stories and travel around Japan with them?
This time, Itakura interviews Yamashiro Momo Konto, the second generation owner of Cafe Garamanjaku in Kin Town, Kunigami District, Okinawa Prefecture, about which he says, "I feel soothed by the vibrant seasonal island vegetables and medicinal herbs, and the nostalgic atmosphere of the store."

Taking over the restaurant from his late mother, who continued to serve food that nourishes life

Itakura
The previous owner, Kiyoko, studied the literature on medicinal cuisine that has been passed down since ancient times in Okinawa. She served vegan set meals while experiencing the power of Okinawan ingredients for herself, and was loved by people as the "mother of Okinawa." Unfortunately, she passed away in 2021, and there were concerns that "we would never be able to taste that delicious cuisine again." After that, when I found out that Momo Konto had taken over the business, I really wanted to talk to her.

Mr. Yamashiro (hereafter referred to as "honorific titles omitted")
Thank you for all the care you gave my mother when she was alive. After she passed away, I spent about a year in mourning, and from April 2022, I started to slowly resume my activities.

Itakura
It must have been difficult when Kiyoko passed away unexpectedly. Momo Konto, who had been helping out at the store for some time, had you always planned on becoming the successor?

Yamashiro
No, I didn't think about it at all. My mother was working hard to run this store, so I thought it was natural for us as a family to support her.

Itakura
What kind of person was Kiyoko to you, Kondo-san?

Yamashiro
My mother was an innocent person. She loved interacting with people, was always busy, and welcomed and loved her customers like her own children, so the customers were also fond of her. When it came to cooking, she ran a restaurant in Naha before opening this place, so she was a person with a natural sense and passion for cooking.

Itakura
What about you, Momoimato?

Yamashiro
I'm shy and laid back, and different from my mother. So, my role was to watch over my mother, who sometimes overwhelmed herself with her passion and pushed herself beyond her capacity. When I think about it, our relationship was like a mother-daughter relationship reversed (laughs).

Itakura
Although you are still young, you are calm and collected. But your appearance and expressions are just like Kiyoko's (laughs). You said that you had no intention of taking over the restaurant, but how did your feelings change?

Yamashiro
The biggest thing was the words of gratitude I received from customers. Many of them care deeply for my mother, and they would say, "If Garamanjaku disappeared, there would be no reason to come to Okinawa." I was very surprised to learn that visiting this place had become a major purpose for their trips. My brother was already working in Tokyo, so I was the only one who could take over. I was wondering what to do, but my father told me, "Just have fun and I'll help you." His words gave me the push I needed to continue running the store. My way of thinking and tastes are similar to my father's, so we had a lot in common and it was very reassuring.

Kin Town, an oasis where nature is abundant and people are close to each other, has remained unchanged since ancient times

Itakura
First of all, what was the reason that Kiyoko, the previous owner, decided to start this shop?

Yamashiro
One day, my mother heard the news that an elementary school student in Okinawa had died of a cerebral infarction, and it seemed to have a big impact on her. Okinawa is said to be a prefecture of longevity and health, but in reality, junk food is widespread, and the number of people suffering from adult diseases and obesity is increasing. So my mother decided that "we must pass on the island vegetables, medicinal herbs, and traditional cuisine that have protected the health of the Okinawan people." Kin Town was my father's hometown, so it was familiar to her and rich in nature. We built a traditional house with red roofing and Ryukyu tatami mats.

Itakura
When you think of Kin Town, many people may imagine military bases and restaurants, but this place is really quiet.

Yamashiro
That's right. This area is close to the sea, but it's also surrounded by forests. Each grade level at the elementary school has their own fields and rice paddies where they work on the land. The relationship between teachers and students is also close, and traditional lifestyles and customs are maintained.

Itakura
Food education is taking place in a natural way in this area. The restaurant is filled with the warmth of wood, and in the garden, Okinawan plants and medicinal herbs are growing vibrantly, and time passes slowly. Even first-time visitors will feel a sense of nostalgia, as if they were visiting their grandmother's house. For Momo Konto, this place where she grew up must be the ultimate oasis.

Yamashiro
Yes. Okinawa's famous sites and beaches are beautiful, but they are always crowded with tourists and it's not a relaxing place, so being here is the most relaxing place I can be.

I want to cherish our connections and enjoy collaborations while moving forward at my own pace.

Itakura
Could you tell us about the attention to detail you put into the food you serve? Kiyoko said, "If you eat seasonal foods and have a good balance of the five tastes (sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami), you can stay healthy and not overeat or get fat."

Yamashiro
Yes, that's right. I'm always conscious of incorporating the five tastes in a well-balanced way. We are open from Friday to Monday, but on other days we travel all over the island in search of seasonal ingredients. We also use medicinal herbs from our garden in our juices and cooking. And we don't serve anything that could cause allergies. For example, Kin Town is famous for taimo (taro), but we don't use it because some people get itchy skin from it.





Itakura
Anyone can eat here without worry. How did you feel when you actually reopened your restaurant?
 
Yamashiro
I've always watched my mother cook, but I never really learned how to season food. Also, she always cooked by eye, so of course she didn't have any recipes (laughs). So I've been trying to recall the tastes from my memory and asking the opinions of staff and customers who used to work here.

Itakura
Did you notice anything new during this trial and error process?

Yamashiro
Thanks to my mother, I think I have naturally developed an intuition for what is good for my body. Since I was born, my mother has always cooked fresh meals with love, so there was no microwave, chemical seasonings, or instant foods in our house.

Itakura
Growing up enjoying healthy, loving meals is a great asset. I just had the "Garamanjaku set meal" made by you, Momo Konto, and while it had the taste of your mother's cooking, it was gentler and smoother. Is there anything you keep in mind when cooking?

Yamashiro
In my mother's time, the majority of customers were locals, mostly health-conscious adult women who came all the way from other places. Since the COVID-19 pandemic, people's interest in health seems to have increased, and recently people from within the prefecture and men have also started visiting with interest. Since we have people of all ages and races, I try to make the seasoning as mild as possible while still being sensitive to the five flavors so that everyone can easily enjoy the food.





Itakura
Are you cooking by yourself now?

Yamashiro
Yes. My father helps me with the grocery shopping, but cooking on my own suits me better. That's why I limit myself to 10 meals a day.

Itakura
The owner's pet dog, Kanasa (which means "adorable" in the local dialect), who I hadn't seen last time, also seems to be loved by customers.

Yamashiro
My mother passed away, and he came to live with us at a strange time. His personality is similar to my mother's, so maybe he's watching over us in a different form (laughs).

Itakura
Do you have any new dreams or things you want to tackle in the future?

Yamashiro
Before my life ends, I want to achieve something my mother could not. For example, living longer than my mother, continuing Okinawa Karate until I die, having more children than my mother, anything is fine. I would like to hold workshops at the shop from time to time with people from different industries on the theme of health. My mother was supported by people she met, and I have been able to get this far thanks to their support. I would like to continue to cherish these connections and create opportunities that are fun and meaningful for both me and the people I meet. I hope to achieve these goals little by little with the spirit of "Nankurunaisa" (a dialect word meaning "whatever will happen").

Itakura
Recently, she held a workshop on baby food with her friend, an obstetrician. I'm looking forward to future collaborations. Seeing how you proceed at your own pace without being too nervous, I felt that you are reliable. It seems that the space will become more accessible to younger generations. I'm also looking forward to seeing how your cooking will evolve in the future. Thank you for today.


Cafe Garamanjaku



A relaxing old-style cafe that advocates the importance of food as medicine

It opened in November 2009 in Kin Town, located on the central east coast of Okinawa Island. In a 30-year-old traditional house built using traditional techniques, you can enjoy dishes such as the "Garamanjaku Set Meal" (10 meals only, 3,500 yen) made with Okinawa's traditional island vegetables and medicinal herbs. The nutritious and cleansing dishes are exactly what you hear in Okinawa about "nuchigusui" (a mother's love, cooking, compassion for people, something that nourishes the soul). In April 2022, Yamashiro Momo Konto, the second generation owner, took over the restaurant.

https://garamanjaku.com/

Access: Approximately 75 minutes by car from Naha International Airport.

Travel & Spa Journalist
Yumiko Itakura
Yumiko Itakura

He assumed his current position after working as an editor at ``25ans'' and other publications. Traveling around the world, he proposes and writes travel plans that appeal to the five senses in various media, with themes of healing, health, food, and culture that live in the land. He also serves as a speaker at seminars sponsored by government international organizations, tourism bureaus, and companies. Also known as a lover of Italy, he composed and wrote "Italian Mamma's Recipes" (published by Sekai Bunkasha). Also, in the Japan National Tourism Organization's Global Campaign, he speaks about Japanese healing as an expert in the field of relaxation.Expert Insights Go Deep Into Japan

photos & realization: Yumiko Itakura

Meet "my style"
We deliver wellness information.